Monday, June 1
Before leaving Vienna for Budapest we had one last visit to make, Schoenbrunn Palace, the summer Habsburg residence on the city outskirts ("outskirts" were more so in the old days). With 1,441 rooms of magnificence it was the only European royal palace to rival Versailles for splendour.
Approaching through the "front gate".
When we arrived at 11 AM the tickets we purchased there were for an 11:57 entry time. We took the opportunity to have a late breakfast of fresh apple strudel with vanilla ice cream - the breakfast of royalty. Hence, "Let them eat cake!"
Our self guided tour took us through 40 splendid, fully furnished rooms that have been restored to perfection. It's as though restoration was completed just for us yesterday; from the fresh sheen of the (tons of) gilding, to the Baccarat crystal chandeliers with not a speck of dust visible on any of the thousands of pendants, to unobtrusive, modern accent lighting that highlights artwork, selected objets d'art and room features. Money considerations were obviously secondary in the restoration, but more importantly there seems to have been the will to do it right. Not meaning to compare, but the French might put out more effort to bring Versailles closer to this top flight benchmark. "Hall of Mirrors" in Versailles we're talking to you.
The Great Gallery, used by the imperial family for balls, banquets and receptions. "It represents a sumptuous example of Rococo art" with its crystal glass mirrors, gilt stucco work and ceiling frescoes.
Schoenbrunn left, Versailles right.
This is a room for guests to retire to for discreet apres dinner conversation with the Emperor. All that our Arnold S. offered the boys was a "cigar tent" next to the Capitol in which to twist arms. Cheesy, like the guy himself.
One or more (depending on room size) of these ornate porcelain stoves of varying sizes are in each room. Servants stoked the stoves from behind with wood day and night - the walls had passageways for this purpose so that the servants' betters would not be disturbed. Of course, servants could themselves listen from those passageways. And, naturally, every bedroom had one of these things......
The black lacquer panelled room where Emperor Franz Joseph received individuals who had requested an audience - up to a hundred people a day. He was famous for his phenomenal memory, never forgetting a name or a face. He considered himself "the first public servant", starting his day at 5 in the morning and spending it at his desk, having breakfast and lunch brought to him. That's what it takes to run an empire "on which the sun never sets". He's got our vote, as if he needed it.
This is just a small section of the floor (the FLOOR, mind you) of the above room. Exquisite detailing.
Termed the "Millions Room", it is one of the most valuable in the palace. The wall paneling is made from an extremely rare type of rosewood into which are set Indo-Persian miniatures depicting scenes of the private and court lives of the Moghul rulers in 16th century India.
A few more interior shots:
Love the manikans made out of slices of wood:
There are fine gardens to walk through at the conclusion of the interior tour....they reminded Norm that there's some backyard tending to do when we return.
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