Thursday, June 25, 2015

42 - 6/11/2015 - Baden-Baden


Thursday, June 11 (Day 42)

After spending much of the day walking around the old town area of the city we both agree that this place has ambience and charm in spades. Winding cobblestone streets? Got 'em. Large open spaces? Got 'em. Culture, great looking older buildings, churches, castle on a hill? All here. A variety of shops and eateries? Minimal traffic and noise? Thermal baths? Yes, yes, yes.

Taking nothing away from the wonderful offerings in other cities we've visited, but this encapsulates so much of that in one place. A block from our hotel is the Faberge Museum - a prior town hall purchased by a Russian art collector, Alexander Ivanov, and opened in 2009 to display many of his over 3,000 Faberge and also pre-Columbian acquisitions in recent years. Wonderful stuff for a billionaire to own and display.  There are three  large display cases filled with gold objects of all types from the Maya, Aztecs and Incas. The docent, who followed us around diligently explained that the entire collection in the three cases was purchased from a "Dutch gentleman" - nothing illegally smuggled out. If you want to read more about the lifestyle of this member of the "rich and famous", Google his name. Why isn't the collection in Russia? Ivanov's concern is meddling by the state (by that read theft under guise of authority,  expropriation, etc.), occurrences which are not a concern in Germany. All of the exhibit signage is in Russian and German. The docent knew her stuff, though.

We also spent three hours at the Caracalla Spa, two blocks from our hotel (are you getting the impression that our hotel is well located? Navigator Pam yet another commendation for this selection.) Caracalla Spa is quite the opposite of both Friedrichsbad spa across the street and the spa  in Wiesbaden, both of which are of another era. Caracalla opened in 1999 and is totally modern in design, light and airy. It is owned by the company that owns Friedrichsbad, but Friedrichsbad is more expensive and full service. Anyway, we had to take our bathing suits out of mothballs for this one. People bring their kids and quite a few teenagers seem to visit after school. All those impressionable minds. Norm gives Caracalla a Good Housekeeping Seal of Decency. But wherever they are, thermal mineral waters wash over all who want to bathe in them alike, whether they are wearing loincloths, togas, Speedos, thongs or buck nothing at all...equal opportunity soaking.

We had our choice of sidewalk cafes and restaurants within easy walking distance. There is no trolley, no subway, some busses but mainly just your own feet to get around.  Very pleasant to be away from big city noise.

Most tourist info offices are located in holes in the wall. This is where Baden-Baden's main tourist information office is located. Classy, with murals covering the walls inside the portico.


We love the panorama feature on the iphone:



We thought these were interesting...there are three pots raised high in the air on a side street behind the Friedrichsbad Spa. That's a church on the right. Alms pots?


Liked this table sitting next to the pots:

Norm is showing off his new-found vim due to all the exercise we've been getting on this trip. Okay, so he's walking down the steps, not up. Same idea.



The Faberge Museum with pieces ranging from his first Faberge Egg and his last, along with many other items such as silverware, punch bowls, zoo figurines, jeweled crowns, and of course, jewelry. No photos! Pam even had to store her purse which is where, of course, she keeps her Apple camera. No Museum has ever made her store her purse. A stocky bald guy guarded the entry way. Friendly enough, but.....

No pictures were allowed inside the museum, but outside they have a Faberge rabbit that we used as a photo op. Ivanov had it made as a way oversize replica of a silver rabbit drinking cup in the collection (the head tilts back on the small one).
Entering the Caracalla Spa (aka paradise).




Three levels of inside pools have swim-out areas which join with the outside pools.





Outside pools and spas.




There are two "grotto pools" - one cold and one hot.  That's Norm beneath the waterfall. Could this be the "hot" grotto?


We had dinner here - so picturesque, with musicians.  





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