33 - 6/2/2015 - Budapest Day 1

Tuesday, June 2 

Culture takes a holiday today as we headed from our hotel this morning to spend a relaxing day at the Szechenyi Baths on the other side of the city. Three different subway lines needed to be taken, but we were able to start the trip at a subway station across from the hotel and end up about 20 minutes later at a station directly in front of the baths. 

Because of the geology of the ground under Budapest it's said that you can drill anywhere and up will come boiling hot mineral spring water. Wherever such baths are found around the world the operators proudly attest to the specific mineral content of their particular spring water and here is no exception. Different minerals and their ratios are supposed relieve, or soothe, different bodily conditions, from skin issues to arthritis and beyond. When you're not IN the water, at most locations you can also drink it from fountains and bottles. "Out, Out, You Ailment!" Well, drink enough mineral water and for sure something will come out. Other than that, of course, "taking the waters" just feels really good. People have been doing it for millennia, either in fancy surroundings or simply by sitting in a hole in the ground. Szechenyi Baths is definitely one of the fancy ways to do it.

Outside are an enormous swimming pool at one temperature and two other large pools with progressively hotter water. Also available at an extra cost are a huge array of services up to and including those which require medical staff. There are innumerable rooms for these purposes which is one reason the place is so large. We took the basic package which was use of all pools and common areas plus a locking changing room of our own.

The imposing front entrance to the baths. A cathedral to good health.

This is what you see as you walk in the front door. And then you look up at the ceiling.......

Once through the imposing lobby things lighten up markedly as prevailing attire is (at times unfortunately) Speedos for men and thongs for women, at least for the remarkable number of women who appear to be 16 and should be in school. Babushkas dress like babushkas. Pam had on a one piece, American style, which looked right fine.

The guy with the beard at lower left is 110 years old. He attributes his longevity to taking the waters 8 hours a day and being a paid Santa once a year.

We were just checking to see if the camera timer went off. Why else ruin a good shot?

On our way back to the hotel we got off a stop early to shop for dinner fixings at the Great Market Hall which is across the Danube from our hotel. It's a cavernous building with three floors. The basement has fresh fish if all types and pickles(!) The top floor has, among other things, super-cheap, stand-up Hungarian-style fast-food joints along with souvenirs of all types. We stuck to the first floor because live seafood was not on Pam's menu.

We picked up a trolley car in front of the market which took us across the bridge to the front of the hotel. More on our hotel and the Gellert Spa tomorrow.

We're glad we each bought day tickets good for 24 hours on any subway, trolley car, bus or certain boats. Buying tickets is on the honor system with one caveat. We and those riding near us were randomly checked for valid tickets five times at different points during the day - no valid ticket, or ticket not valid for the mode of transport you're on, and big fine. Also, for us, the humbling embarrassment of surrounding Hungarians pointing and booing at the cheating Americans. Sacramento Light Rail, aka "The Toonerville Trolley" take note and start pulling in some real bucks.

Tomorrow... The Gellert Bath and our hotel...